P194 - Russia - Kizhy Intercession Cathedral

Kizhy Intercession Cathedral (UNESCO WHS)

Kizhi is an island on Lake Onega in the Republic of Karelia (Medvezhyegorsky District), Russia with an ensemble of wooden churches, chapels and houses. It is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Russia and an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Kizhi island is about 7 km long and 0.5 km wide. It is surrounded by about 5,000 other islands, most of which are very small—some of them just rock outcroppings (called "skerries"), though some are as big as 35 km long. Access to Kizhi is by hydrofoil across Lake Onega from Petrozavodsk (numerous trips every day in the summer), by snowcat (in the winter), or by cruise ship. There is no lodging on Kizhi for overnight guests.

The Kizhi Pogost, as it is known in Russian, is the area inside the perimeter wall or fence and includes 2 large churches and a bell-tower. But the entire island of Kizhi is a museum with many historically significant and beautiful wooden and log structures including windmills, chapels, boat- and fish-houses, saunas, barns and graneries, and homes. There are two small villages on the island that are home to a few local fishermen. Museum staff also live in the old log homes found in these villages.

The jewel of its architecture is the 22-domed Transfiguration Church (circa 1714), with a large iconostasis—a wooden screen covered with religious portraits, featuring much gold leaf. This iconostasis is in Petrozavodsk until restoration of the Transfiguration Church is completed (scheduled completion is 2014, the 300th anniversary of this monumental church). The massive Transfiguration Church (also known as the "summer church") is about 37m tall, making it one of the tallest log structures in the world. The smaller, nine-domed Intercession Church (also known as the "winter church") was built in 1764, and its iconostasis is intact and can be seen by visitors. The third structure inside the Pogost is the belltower which was built in 1874. The belltower is also constructed with walls of horizontally-fitted logs, though they are covered by exterior wooden planks and cannot be seen. These structures were erected without any nails or other metal, and were made of scribe-fitted horizontal logs, with interlocking corner joinery—either round notch or dovetail—cut by axes. The pine trees used for wall construction were brought to Kizhi from the mainland nearby—a notable transport feat for the 18th century.

A museum of Russian wooden architecture was created in Kizhi by Soviet authorities in 1960. Wooden structures were transported to Kizhi from various parts of Karelia, notably the 14th century St. Lazarus church from the Muromsky Monastery, which is the oldest wooden church in Russia. Other notable specimens of Russian wooden architecture may be found in Kondopoga and Kem.


俄罗斯北方的世界遗产- 基日岛 ：
基日岛是在俄罗斯地图上很难找到的一个小岛的名字。她位于俄罗斯西北部，距离圣彼得堡不远，有着欧洲最大的两个淡水湖泊。一个叫 “拉多加湖”，有着一个以怪松悬崖著称的 “伏朗岛”；另一个叫 “奥涅加湖”，以几十座、上百年的小木屋而远近闻名。在俄罗斯的西北方，这是两个最负盛名的自然和人文景区。而基日岛的原木建筑群，被俄罗斯人称之为 “没有屋顶的博物馆”

基日岛位于俄罗斯欧洲部分第二淡水湖奥涅加湖里，基日岛古迹众多，被誉为俄罗斯北方的象征。建于1714年的有着20个圆顶的圣母安息大教堂是俄罗斯保存至今的最著名的古代木教堂。它与建于1764年的9顶圣母教堂以及建于1874年的锥形钟楼一道，组成了无以伦比的古俄罗斯宗教建筑群。基日乡村教堂坐落在位于卡累利阿的奥涅加湖中的一个小岛上。那里还有两座18世纪的木结构教堂，和一座建于1862年的木制八韵角钟楼。这些非同寻常的建筑，不仅和周围的景观极其协调，其木工工艺的科学性展现出了梦幻般的视觉效果，并使这一古代教区得以永存。

基日岛乡村教堂由三个建筑几乎成三角形排列组成,分别是带有22个圆顶的主显圣容教堂（建于1714年）、有９个圆顶的圣母教堂（１７６４年）和八角形钟楼（１８７４年）。据记载，早在１６１６年就有过对这三座建筑的描绘，但１７世纪末它们遭雷击烧毁，后来相继在原址重建。其中，主显圣容教堂首先确立了主导地位，并决定了后来建筑的特点。尽管建造年代不同，结构有别，但就连对建筑艺术外行的人也会深信不疑：它们构成了一个统一的整体。从教堂建筑中，你可以聆听到多神教（当地原居民的宗教）的余音，感觉到东正教的喜庆气氛、巴洛克富丽堂皇的痕迹，以及卡累利阿和维普斯人的文化气息。而匀秀、挺拔的钟楼则显示出１９世纪下半叶城市石头建筑的影响，尽管它采用了某些非民间木结构建筑的工艺，但仍保持了建筑群的平衡与完整。所有建筑的墙体均用圆木垒造，古朴中透出均衡的节奏感。而错落有致的教堂圆顶，用刚削好的山杨木犁形板呈梯状覆盖并镏金，天长日久变成了今天这种高贵稀有的银白色，尤其在阳光的照射下，数十个圆顶闪烁出迷人的光泽。

然而，这组建筑究竟是何人设计，至今仍是个谜。当地民间传说是一个名叫涅斯托尔的木工大师建造了主显圣容这座美丽的教堂。工程完工后他欣赏着自己的得意之作，然后把斧头扔进了奥涅加湖，并说：“过去没有、现在没有、将来也不会有第二个同样的建筑！”的确如此。木头教堂在不同的光线下展现着不同的色彩。无论是春夏秋冬、雨雪晨昏，木头的墙面和屋顶都在变换着颜色。在铅黑的乌云下面，“洋葱头”是暗灰色的；而忽然远处有一片晴空，“洋葱头”立刻就变成了银白色；正面的光照下，据许多俄罗斯人的介绍，会有一种升腾而去的感觉；而在澄净明透碧或者飞红乱紫的逆光背景下，一种透明的黑色描绘的奇曲玄妙的剪影，似乎更表现了建筑的本意和本色。

欧洲第二大, 面积仅次于拉多加湖的奥涅加湖地处卡累利阿南部, 环湖东北部惯称外奥涅加, 早在9000年前卡累利阿地区就有人类居住。公元９～１２世纪初，卡累利阿属基辅罗斯。１０世纪，诺夫哥罗德人开始北上卡累利阿垦荒。这里茂密的森林中毛皮野兽出没，纵横的湖泊里大量鱼类繁衍，还有丰富的地下铁矿和通往北方海域的要道，这一切吸引了诺夫哥罗德人的到来。到１２世纪中叶，南卡累利阿地区成为诺夫哥罗德封建共和国的一部分。１４７８年，卡累利阿与诺夫哥罗德一起并入时称莫斯科国家的俄罗斯。１３～１７世纪，该地区战火频燃，纷争迭起，黩武强大的瑞典频繁侵袭这里。长年的战事使北方疆土横遭涂炭，直到彼得大帝坚定的脚步踏上涅瓦河岸。然而，即将到来的新世纪带给基日人的依旧是贫穷和奴役。随着该地区第一家造铁厂的建立（彼得罗扎沃茨克就是“彼得工厂”的意思），当地农民被迫离开祖祖辈辈耕作的土地。１６９４年，根据沙皇谕旨，基日岛有1197个农户被强行赶进造铁厂劳役。次年４月６日，基日及其周围地区的教堂纷纷敲响了警钟，农民们手拿棍棒和大镰刀汇集到教堂，拒不去工厂做工。沙俄军队用火枪才将起义镇压下去。但基日人热爱自由的精神没有被摧毁。1769～1771年间，基日成为卡累利阿历史上规模最大的农民暴动的策源地。

１８世纪初，随着在北方战争中的胜利，俄国在波罗的海沿岸确立了自己的地位，彼得一世的激进改革波及全国。基日岛的主显圣容教堂正是建于这一时期，它是人民自由精神和天才智慧的独特表现，是俄国北方民间木结构建筑的最高成就。像任何天才的创造一样，它含有一种激动人心又无法释然的东西——将深刻、独有、多面性、和谐与美汇合在一起的秘密


References sources : Wikipedia, 南方集邮论坛